SPROUT – GROWING ROOTS
(top down, with longer lengths in arms and body)
See the original HERE

Sizes: XS(S,M,L, XL,2X,3X)
Measurements at Bust: 32(36,40,44,48,52,56)
Yarn estimates in yards (Worsted weight – check gauge):
Short sleeve/super cropped: 500(530,580, 630, 670, 720, 760)
Short sleeve/ longer body: 650(700,750,800,850,900,950)
Long sleeve/super cropped body: 600(630,680,730,770,820,860)
Long sleeve/ Longer body: 720(800, 880,960,1100, 1200,1300)
Men's: 1000(1250,1500,1750,2050,2200,2450)
Gauge: 18 sts and 25 rows =4 inch over stst
Needles: US6 (4.5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge you need DPN’s and a circular.
Tools: darning needle for seaming, waste yarn or stitch holders

**notes**
1.Read everything first so you don’t get a surprise, though it is pretty straight forward. There are a lot of new options and sizing so it may help to circle or highlight the ones that you want.
2. I’ve marked the increasing stitches as [M1] please note that you can work these as YO, M1, or Kfb. I usually do the sleeve ones as a Kfb and the waist shaping as M1. I'm doing M1's with a twist for all of them. Basically M1 with a twist (my words) is just a Make one that you put a twist in and pull tight so it doesn't make a hole.
3. All of the 2x2 ribbing that is worked flat should start and end with K2 on the RS. This will make it look even and balanced.

Inset Pattern:
R1: P1, K4, P1
R2 and 4: K1, P4, K1
R3: P1, C4B, P1
These 4 rows make up the inset cable pattern.

*C4B = place 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold to the back of your work, knit the next 2 stitches from the LHN, then knit the 2 stitches from the Cable needle. (if you want matching cables you can alternate C4B and C4F for each shoulder)

CO 82(86,90,94,98,102,106) sts using a stretchy cast on method.
work 1 inch in 2x2 rib
RS row – Left front Knit 12(13,14,15,16,16,17) PM, work inset pattern, PM, sleeve Knit 5(5,5,6,6,7,7) PM, work inset pattern, PM, Back Knit 24(26,28,28,30,32,34), PM, work inset pattern, PM, sleeve Knit 5(5,5,6,6,7,7) PM, work inset pattern, PM, Right front Knit the remaining 12(13,14,15,16,16,17)

Working the appropriate row of the inset pattern slipping markers as necessary:
Work the WS row back, work to the last 7(8,9,10,11,11,12) sts, wrap turn, work a RS row to the last 7(8,9,10,11,11,12) sts, wrap and turn, *Work a WS row back to the last 2 sts before the previous wrap, wrap and turn, work a RS row to the last 2 sts before the previous wrap, wrap and turn. Repeat from * 1(1,1,2,2,2,3) more times.

Next row is a WS row - work back working in wraps. Work the next RS row working in the wraps aand working it as an increase row :
*Work to the marker, M1, SM, Work inset pattern, SM, M1, - repeat from * around, ending with knitting the remaining stitches.
WS row, work stitches as they appear.

Repeat these rows until you have worked 9(9.5,10,10.5,11,12,12,13) inches from the cast on edge. *Work over to the first marker, remove marker, knit 3, CO 3(3,3,4,4,4,5) sts. PM, CO 3(3,3,4,4,4,5) sts Place the stitches up to the next marker, all the stitches to the following marker, plus 3 (removing all markers as you go all on a thread for the sleeve. Knit 3, remove the last marker for that side. Repeat from * once. Knit to the end of row. Purl back.

If you wish to have a straight bodied sweater, skip this part and knit in stst until you have reached the desired measurement or the measurements listed below the next paragraph.

Work in stst until your piece measures 2(2,2.5,3,3.5,3.5,4) inches from the armhole. Start waist shaping. R1: *Knit to 3 sts to the next marker, K2tog, K1, SM, K1, SSK. Repeat from *. Knit to the end of row. R2-4: work in stst. Repeat rows 1 through 4 two more times. Work 4(4,4,6,6,8,8) rows even. R5: *Knit to 1 st before the next marker, M1, K1, SM, K1, M1 – Repeat from *. Knit to the end of row. Row 6-8: work in stst. Repeat rows 5 through 8 two more times. Work even until the sweater measures 2 inches shy of the desired length (or the follow the length listed below). Work 2 inches in 2x2 rib.

Length underarm to bottom of hem (including ribbing):
Women’s super cropped: 6(6,6.5,6.5,7,7,7.5) inches
Women’s: 13(13.5,14,14.5,15,16,16.5) inches
Men’s: 17(17.5,18,19,20,21,22) inches

Sleeve (you need to do the same thing for both sides, not that you didn’t know that already):
Put all the stitches from the thread onto your circular needles or double points. Pick up and knit 3(3,3,4,4,4,5) sts from the body, work across the stitches that you picked up from the thread, pick up and knit 3(3,3,4,4,4,5) sts from the body, PM for beginning of round. Work one more round even in stst
Next round, K1, K2tog, knit to 3 sts before the end of round, SSK, k1.
Work 5 rounds in stst.
Repeat these rounds until your piece measures 2 inches less than the desired length. (or see my length chart below this paragraph). Since I’m not putting in actual stitches here because there are so many variables now (long sleeve, short sleeves, ¾ length, men’s) be sensible and if you’re decreasing, too much, stop and knit plain to the desired length less inches. Work 2 inches in 2x2 rib.

Sleeve length (underarm to cuff including ribbing):
Women’s short (elbow length) sleeves: 7.5(7.5,8,8,8.5,8.5,9) inches
Women’s ¾ sleeves: 12.5(12.5,13,13,13,13.5,14) inches
Women’s Long sleeves: 17(17,17.5,17.5,18,18,18.5) inches
Men’s Long sleeves: 18(18,18.5,19.5,20,20.5,21) inches

Button Bands:
Pick up and knit:
Women’s Super cropped: 42(46,50,54,58,62)sts
Women’s: 78(82,86,90,94,98,102) sts
Men’s: 98(102,206,110,114,118,122) sts

Work 5 rows in 2x2 rib then BO in a super stretchy BO.
Depending on the length you are doing, and the side, be mindful of your button holes. I plan mine out using safety pins so they’re even and balanced.

Finishing
weave in all ends. I also knot them, since its cotton, before I weave them in.

***************************©2008 Amy A. King and Spunky Eclectic For Non-Commercial Use only***********************
All information in this pattern is provided for your own personal use only, not for distribution by merchants or to be incorporated into other patterns. Please do not redistribute in part or whole without written permission from Amy A. King and Spunky Eclectic.